Yunnan: The Missing Chapter in Lu Yu's 'The Classic of Tea'

Yunnan: The Missing Chapter in Lu Yu's 'The Classic of Tea'

Lu Yu is an iconic figure in the history of tea, often referred to as the "Saint of Tea". Born in China during the Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu dedicated his life to exploring and sharing knowledge about tea. His 'The Classic of Tea' stands as the world's earliest and most comprehensive book on tea.

During Lu Yu's time, Yunnan tea culture was flourishing, and today it's recognized as the birthplace of tea trees. Surprisingly, Lu Yu doesn't discuss Yunnan's tea culture at all. In this post, we'll explain why Yunnan has become the missing chapter in 'The Classic of Tea'.

Yunnan: The Nanzhao Kingdom

Over 1,200 years ago, during the Tang dynasty in which Lu Yu lived, Yunnan was part of the Nanzhao Kingdom. This kingdom governed a vast territory extending from the banks of the Dadu River in the north to regions that include modern-day Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and parts of Myanmar in the south. It encompassed half of Guizhou in the east and connected northern Myanmar with India to the west.

A picture of the ancient town of Nanzhao today.

A picture of the ancient town of Nanzhao today, taken during on of our tea trips.

Initially, the Kingdom of Nanzhao emerged as a local regime in Yunnan, supported by the Tang Empire, and operated as a tributary state. The Tang dispatched officials to reside in Dali, the capital of Nanzhao. The kingdom thrived from 649 to 902 AD, roughly paralleling the Tang dynasty. Throughout this period, Nanzhao fluctuated between alliances and hostilities with the Tang.

The Tianbao War

In 752 AD, the Tang Empire launched a military campaign against Nanzhao. This conflict, known as the Tianbao War, lasted three years and resulted in significant losses for the Tang forces, including the capture and subsequent suicide of General Li Mi, along with the deaths of 200,000 Tang soldiers. The aftermath of the Tianbao War severely strained relations between Nanzhao and the Tang dynasty, leading to a diplomatic rift that lasted 42 years, from 752 to 794 AD. During this period, there's was virtually no tea culture exchange between the two regions.

The An-Shi Rebellion

Shortly thereafter, the An-Shi Rebellion erupted against the Tang Dynasty, causing a significant portion of the population to flee to Sichuan, Hubei, and other regions. Among them was Lu Yu, who was just 27 years old. Seeking to escape the turmoil, he left Chang'an and journeyed down the Yangtze River.

The Classic of Tea

Lu Yu dedicated nearly 20 years to researching and compiling information about tea across the country, culminating in his legendary work, The Classic of Tea, written around 760-780 AD. During this period, the Nanzhao Kingdom severed diplomatic ties with the Tang Dynasty from 752 to 794 AD, resulting in a hostile relationship between the two. Tang subjects were prohibited from entering Nanzhao's territory, making it challenging for Lu Yu to ascend the tea mountains and engage with local tea practices.

It wasn't until 794 AD that Nanzhao finally welcomed the Tang Dynasty. By that time, Lu Yu was 66 years old, which likely made it difficult for him to explore the region. Tragically, until his death in 804, the esteemed Tea Master never had the opportunity to visit Nanzhao (present-day Yunnan), witness the beauty of its tea plantations, or sample its renowned teas.

Lu Yu remained unaware that the mountains of Nanzhao Yinsheng Jiedu (now Pu'er and Xishuangbanna) produced exceptional tea. Additionally, the Mengsheman, Yunnan's earliest tea cultivators, had long mastered the art of brewing tea with ginger, cinnamon, and other spices. Fortunately, Yunnan's rich tea culture has been preserved and promoted by subsequent generations, earning it a place of prominence on the world stage.

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